I am staying here in China, maybe not Beijing forever, but China most definitely. I love it here, there is just something about the people, culture and language that excites and invigorates my soul; maybe I was Chinese in a past life? But seriously, this place is my home; America is my country, but China is most certainly my home. But in the past China did not feel the same way as I do, or, the government didn't feel the same way as I do, because it seemed like they were doing everything to make getting a visa and staying here legally as hard as possible. I have something like 15 Chinese visas in my old passport, so many that I had to get a new damn passport altogether, and I have been to Hong Kong about a dozen times just to get a new visa. They couldn't defeat me, though! I am still here and I am still standing, and I am planning on keeping it that way.
So for those fellow expats of mine that wish to stay here indefinitely, or at least for an extended period of time, I wanted to pen a brief article about a couple of things that have made my life here in Beijing a bit easier. And, as I've said before, any products or services I speak about within this article are those which I have personally used and found helpful; I have not, nor shall I in the future, receive any pay, preferential treatment or discounted services for speaking about any company or product in my posts. I am writing about these things simply because I like them.
VPN's
First thing's first, a VPN. Every discerning foreigner in Beijing certainly needs a VPN, be it for Facebook, Netflix, Gmail, porno (you can't lie to me...) or anything else our laowai hearts may desire, we need one. It's a bit silly that the government blocks so much of the internet here in China, I mean hell, even Blogger is blocked, but it is the reality of life in China so if you want to access the outside world, you need a VPN.
Personal Experience
When I first moved to Beijing I used PandaPow VPN, which I would generally recommend (but stay tuned for some free options in a few paragraphs) as the connection was always stable (except for about a month but they extended my membership to compensate) and they had a wide variety of servers to connect to which comes in really handy when watching Netflix (as a brief aside, TV show and film rights are cheaper in Northern Europe as opposed to the US or UK, so if your favorite show or movie isn't on Netflix anymore, try switching your IP address to Finland or Norway, chances are they will have it). PandaPow was great, it works across Mac, Windows and Android (sorry fellow Linux users) and was 84USD for a year. They even have a router for sale with a built in VPN now for 99USD A year, which I kind of want to buy now that I've seen it.
What My Friends Love
Next up is Astrill, which I have never used personally but many of my friends have it and they love it, plus it supports Linux. My buddy J has been using it for almost four years here in Beijing and in that entire time he only complained about a lack of connectivity once. I go over to his house often and we watch Always Sunny and Rick and Morty, and Astrill always provides us with an impressively fast and lag free connection. Here is the real kicker though: Astrill defeats deep packet inspection, doesn't keep logs and accepts bitcoin, meaning your internet history will be known to none, so you can do whatever the hell you want without fear of anyone (the government) invading your privacy. Not only does Astrill value privacy, the VPN works across Mac, Windows, Linux, Android, smart TV's, Apple TV and on Boxee. A subscription is 70USD per year and their VPN routers start at 50USD. You know what, screw PandaPow, I would say go for Astrill, unless of course, you want a free VPN.
The Free Stuff
There are two well known VPN's that are made specifically to circumvent the Great Firewall and provide unfettered internet access to those within Mainland China, as well as Iran, Russia, Belarus and Cuba: they are Freegate and Ultrasurf. Now, these projects exist to provide people stuck behind enemy lines access to US based IP address, simple enough, right? That means that while user security is a high priority, they do log your data and restrict access to illegal content, meaning no porno. I know, I know, pure insanity! But both of these services are free and quite reliable, and they don't know about every porn site out there, so remember boys and girls, there is a way around everything. I would say download these two just to have them, they're free, so why not?
In addition to the four VPN's I have spoken about, there are literally a million others made specifically for use in China, such as HideMyAss, ExpressVPN, VyprVPN and TorGuard. So before you make a purchase remember to research all of your options thoroughly to find the VPN that will work best for you. And while all of these VPN's are pretty great, after doing research for this article I would really suggest going with Astrill, all my friends that use it swear by it, and it works for Linux!
The Not So Sexy Sex Stuff
One thing that no one, foreigners or locals, ever told me about when I first came to China was the birds and the bees. And no I don't mean the talk, already had that, and no I don't mean about picking up Chinese chicks, already gots me a girl, I mean about condoms, STD tests, birth control and abortions. We are all well versed, I hope, about pregnancy and STD prevention in our countries of origin, but in China these sort of things can often be tricky, and not just because Chinese people rarely talk about sex. When I worked at my last job and would hang out with all of the local guys, they would never ever ever talk about sex, mostly about video games and basketball, it was mind blowing! Among my foreign friends it seems like sex is all we ever talk about; cultural differences I guess... But because of the general lack of information on such less than savory topics I wanted to offer up what I know to my fellow expats. Here we go.
STD's and Condoms
Please for god's sake use condoms. I know that they suck, and I know you wouldn't put a plastic bag on your head so why would you want to put one on your Johnson? Because nobody likes an unexpected pregnancy, and because everybody hates STDs. So be safe, please please please, be safe. STD's are not hugely prevalent in China like they are in America (in my home city something like 1 in 4 people had an STD, scary stuff), but they do exist; China is home to all of the classics, like HIV/AIDs, hepatitis, herpes and syphilis. One of the problems with the spread of STD's in Chins is the lack of sex education in public schools which is utterly deplorable, coupled with the beliefs that many Chinese people hold concerning STD's, like the one time a local friend told me AID's only affects foreigners because he had never met a Chinese person with AID's. I wanted to smack him right in the mouth for that idiocy! Both of those beliefs are far from true: in 2014 alone the rate of AIDs cases increased 15% (source). Not only is HIV/AIDs on the rise, but the rate of syphilis increased almost 20 times from 1990 to 1998, gonorrhea rates tripled in that time and the incidence of STD contractions outside of marriage shot up from 55% in 1995 to 72% in 1998 (source).
What does all of this mean? Possibly that abstinence is our only hope? No, never, abstinence sucks! What this means is that you need to remember to use protection, guys and girls alike, and that you should maybe avoid one night stands and try to get to know the person first. Now I know what you're thinking: "Joe, get to know the person first? When did this blog become a lesson in Amish morality?". Look, all I'm trying to do is keep my fellow foreigners safe in China and give you relevant information so you can make informed decisions. If you want to troll the clubs of Sanlitun looking for dudes or chicks to bang-a-rang, I am not going to try and stop you, but I would have say you may not live as long as most.
Onto Durex, which are easily the most ubiquitous Western brand of condom in China. If you haven't seen Durex for sale, you've obviously never been in a 7-11, Full Time CVS, Carrefour, BHG or pharmacy in Beijing. They are everywhere and easily available. I would suggest purchasing them from a chain retailer such as Carrefour or 7-11, as the chance of buying counterfeit condoms from international chain stores is much lower than if you buy them from some random convenience store or that guy that sells cigs and rubbers across from Muse on Dirty Bar Street in between the north and south village. Either way, when you buy a new pack make sure to crack one open and test it out. Fill it up with a ton of water in the sink, blow it up and tie some balloon animals, stretch it over your shoe; just make sure that it is going to be up to snuff.
But, as always, be very careful when purchasing condoms anywhere in China as counterfeits are rife, and you never want to put anything counterfeit on your head, either of them.
Birth Control Pills
Next up let's talk about birth control pills and the morning after pill, both of which are available OTC in China. This is the way things should be as a government has no right to legislate what a woman can or can't do with her own body; as a body belongs to an individual, so should the individual have full control over the functions of their body. OK, enough of my political spiel, but I think that is just common sense truth.
I honestly don't know too much about birth control/abortion pills in China as I am a man, and my girlfriend and I just use condoms. What I do know is what I have heard from close female Chinese friends about counterfeit birth control products and their subsequent horror stories. Such medication is not something to be fooled around with or taken lightly as they can potentially and irreversibly damage the uterus, ovaries and fallopian tubes, and counterfeit medicines will do just that. A common complaint from guys in the US about their girlfriends is that their girlfriends say they don't want to go on the pill because they are "allergic", but allergic or not it's their body so it's their decision. A similar complaint about Chinese women could be that they refuse to take the pill because of the problem with counterfeit medications in China and their fear of damaging their reproductive organs, which is something that being true or not, should be taken seriously.
Counterfeit birth control and abortion pills can potentially destroy a woman's reproductive capabilities by causing severe uterine scarring or permanently damaging the ovaries. I cannot stress this enough to both guys and girls: only use such medication that you know to be legitimate. But where can you find the good stuff? I would suggest getting it from a Western hospital, such as one of the many United Family Hospitals, which are Western run hospital that employ foreign (US) trained doctors or Chinese doctors trained in foreign medical practices; I will get into this more in a bit. I would honestly say just stick to condoms, as that is probably the safest option for anyone. If you would like to use birth control pills, consult a Western physician or a close and trusted female Chinese friend that has used such products before.
STD Tests and Hospitals
Now, Beijing offers all foreigners the courtesy of a standard STD test when getting that god awful medical check up for a Z visa. But I have asked and I don't think it is a full STD test, in fact that doctors didn't know themselves, all they knew was that if a foreigner tests positive for HIV/AIDs they will not be issued a Z visa. If you want a real STD test, I would once again recommend the United Family Hospital system, for several reasons.
In China, there is no such thing as doctor patient confidentiality, doctors do not take nor are they bound by the Hippocratic Oath, and it only takes five years of schooling to become a medical doctor. I don't mean any offense to the Chinese medical system, actually I do mean some, but the practice of medicine in this country is quite lack luster and leaves a lot to be desired. That isn't to say that Chinese hospitals are all bad, if you have a simple cold, a broken bone, or need an MRI, Chinese hospitals are fairly adept at treating such and are significantly cheaper than their Western counterparts. In fact, I broke my foot back in October while on vacation in the US. To get an MRI there would have been about 1000USD as I do not have insurance, but when I came back home and got an MRI here it was less than 800Rmb; huge difference.
Sorry about the tangent, let's get back to why you shouldn't use a Chinese hospital for something like an STD test, or any other sensitive medical procedure. Chinese doctors do not take a Hippocratic Oath nor do they respect doctor patient confidentiality. This means that if someone does take an STD test at a Chinese hospital, and god forbid, tests positive for HIV/AIDs, the hospital will inform the government and that persons' visa will be immediately revoked. So for your own personal privacy and the sake of your visa, always get tested at a Western hospital. It will be a bit more expensive, but at the end of the day it is worth the price.
Abortions
The same goes for abortions, which I would hope are unnecessary as you should be using birth control in all honesty, but if someone needs one they should always seek to have such a procedure preformed at a Western hospital. Again, this is something I can't really speak to as my girlfriend and I practice safe sex, and I hate the thought of having a child so I do everything I can to prevent pregnancy, but I would suggest asking a close and trusted female Chinese friend, searching on Google for what Western hospitals perform abortions, or ringing up United Family to see what they have to say on the subject. Whatever the case, be safe; having an abortion performed by unqualified medical personnel can possibly result in irreversible, painful or even life threatening damage.
As well, ladies, always use Western hospitals for your gynecological needs. If you want to hear a real horror story about doctor patient rapport and painful examinations, ask a Chinese girl about her last trip to the Chinese gynecologist.
Visa's and Visa Services
This is a subject that I really could have used a crash course in when I first arrived in China as my visa nightmares started almost immediately. For a series of idiotic reasons I had to change my visa about a month after I arrived, luckily I was able to do it here in Beijing, but that usually isn't the case and I only got that lucky once. Like most people, every other time I need a visa I had to do what we seasoned visa holders affectionately refer to as "The Great Visa Run" down to Hong Kong.
My Experience
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| The Visa Office at Harbour Dr. and Fleming Rd. |
The first time I went down to Hong Kong I was a bright eyed young expat with no real clue about what I needed to do to get a visa. I mean, I looked on Google, but the information was vague at best and I was really only left with more questions after I did some research. All I knew was that I had to go to the Chinese Consular Department Office in Hong Kong (right by Wan Chai Subway Station) with my passport and 2 passport photos. When I got there it was complete chaos, there were tons of panicky people running around with even less of a clue than I had about how to renew a Chinese visa. But I just stayed calm, filled out the visa application form, turned in my passport, paid 1100 damn HKD, and came back in a few days to pick up my passport with my brand new visa. Easy peasy. What I had wish I'd known earlier was that there are about 25 million visa services that will do all of this for you for an additional fee. Really quickly before we go on, visa fees vary by nationality, with Americans paying the most for a new visa, you can view the full price list here.
Forever Bright
After I needed to go to Hong Kong for like the 10th time to get a visa I figured I would avoid the hassle and just use a visa service to take care of everything. I searched online and found a lot of different options, some shadier than others, but then I heard from a friend about a visa service she used and was very happy with, Forever Bright. Don't mind the ridiculous sounding name, they are a professional service with English speaking employees, who are actually pretty snooty, but also very helpful. I have used them for my Z visas and for that service they charge 400HKD for a 4 day return, 700HKD for a 2 day return, and I forget exactly how much but around 2000-3000HKD for a same day return if you submit your passport to them before 9:30am. This service is very handy if you need to get back to China quickly for work, but I would suggest taking a few days to see the city and going with the 4 day service so you can have some fun in Hong Kong.
Don't let the visa run to Hong Kong scare or intimidate you; it is something that most of us will end up doing and is sort of a right of passage for expats in China. The first time will honestly be a little nerve racking, but after you have been in China for a few years you will basically become a visa expert. You know what, I'll right a post about the whole process in the near future, so keep a look out!
The Dragon's Tale
No, not as in chasing the dragon; what I mean by this is that we have to come to the end of our brief guide to stuff I wish I knew about living in China sooner. Maybe some of the stuff on the list may be common sense, or known by a lot of expats, and I hope it is, because I was pretty lost concerning the above when I was fresh off the boat. I had a VPN, but didn't know much about their purpose of function, I had no idea where to buy condoms, how to get an STD test, what to do in Hong Kong for a visa; I was a hopeless Tim Budong. So I truly hope that I have been able to help out or provide you with any sort of relevant information. I also hope you enjoyed reading this as much as I enjoyed writing it! If you like what I am doing, hate what I am doing, have any suggestions, criticisms or critiques, please comment on this or any article and let me know. Thanks for reading. Now if you will excuse me, I am off to buy some alligator at Walmart.
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