Saturday, October 25, 2014

Wangfujing and the Donghuamen Night Market 王府井和东华门

Ok, so I will begin by saying that Wangfujing snack street is not the same thing as the night market, or more properly, the Donghuamen night market. I would like to begin with this disclaimer as it seems the not even many Beijingers know the difference between these places and they are often referred to as one in the same.

Wangfujing snack street is located in that maze of stall off of Wangfujing street itself (you know, the one where they try to sell unwary tourists t-shirts for 300 RMB a piece?). Wangfujing snack street is ok, but it isn’t even close to Donghuamen (in terms of food items, that is; they are actually physically quite close). Donghuamen night market is the touristy night market located at the northern of end of Wangfujing street on Donghuamen street which runs perpendicular into the north end of Wanfujing. Less confused now? Me neither, so let’s just dive in.
Wangfujing street, located a few blocks east of Tian’anmen Square, is known for its extravagant stores that no one can afford to shop in. A great example of China’s deserted mega malls, Wangfujing is lined with pricey name-brand stores that would make any boyfriend/husband’s anus shrink in fear. But once inside these malls, you will see for yourself that they are empty; even though Wangfujing itself is always hustling and bustling at all hours, no one is shopping in these ridiculous malls, which is really nice actually, because they can offer you quite, air-conditioned respite from the often noisy and polluted streets of Beijing.
I can’t be sure, but I think Wangfujing and Donghuamen were my first touristy spots that I traveled to in Beijing, and I loved them! Wangfujing was a great introduction to the city, there are is beautifully done and makes it seems like Beijing is a city were the rich come to play, like some sort of communist Monaco. But Donghuamen is were all of the fun is at.
Donghuamen is one long orgy of smells oozing out of stalls were vendors shout there wares at the drunken tourists stumbling by. The city air is lit by incandescent bulbs shinning over food that no ever thought to call, well, food.  There is normal fare there: Beijing sandwiches and doughnuts, ice cream and puddings. But for the more adventurous, or more inebriated, the whole animal kingdom is at your lips. Scorpions and spiders, starfish (how do you eat a starfish?), giant centipedes, lots of penis, flying lizards, sharks and of course, cat and dog; you name it, they cook it.
It’s a lot of fun to go there and watched unwitting tourists eat things that they think are authentic local food while the vendors themselves wonder what the hell are wrong with all these foreigners. Because remember, while once upon a time Chinese people may have eaten these things, you would eat centipede too if you were a poor farmer whose crops failed and pigs dies this past season. But just because people may have eaten this stuff, doesn’t mean they do now, and eating these items won’t impress your Chinese friends, they will only think of you as an even bigger foreign idiot.
The following pics are of the Donghuamen night market and the Wangfujing market street were I often wonder: "What the hell is wrong with tourists?".










Tian’anmen Square and the Forbidden City 天安门广场和紫禁城

All discerning travelers and citizens of the world know that here in the heart of the glorious workers paradise exist two of the greatest monuments to human achievement ever erected: Tian’anmen Square and the Forbidden City. Tian’anmen is of course famous in the minds of Westerners for the protests against the communist government that occurred there in 1989. The protests revolved around demands from the people for greater democratic freedoms, an end to rampant official corruption and profiteering within the communist party, and a greater level of power sharing within a government that was functioning more as an oligarchy than a government of the people. The protests ended on June 4th of that same year with the declaration of martial law and the shooting of an unknown number of civilian victims by the military.
What many people are unaware of however is that there were, all together, 3 major protests that have occurred in Tian’amen following the fall of the Qing dynasty in 1912. All of the protests were motivated by a greater want of individual freedoms; all of the protests failed.
But that was then and this is now, and now it is a must on every travelers to-do list in Beijing, because frankly, no one really cares about the history of the place. Take it as you will, but I have been guilty of the very same every time I have visited Tian’anmen; all I can think about is how funny it is that this Monument to the People was appropriated from the former dynasties and abuts that most bourgeoisie of imperial households, the Forbidden City.
Speaking of the Forbidden City, I bet the Emperors are rolling over in their mausoleums every time another filthy-footed hoi polloi touches sacred imperial ground. But then again, Pu Yi didn’t really seem to care (but I guess you can’t really say much when your choices are cake [read: communism] or death).
Either way, I love the Forbidden City. Built over a period of 14 years from 1406-1420, this marvel of human ingenuity stretches over an area of 72 hectares and contains 980 buildings. It was home to 22 emperors of the Ming and Qing dynasties for almost 500 years until the fall of the Qing. One more cool fact: the Forbidden City is the oldest and largest wooden palace structure in the world. Although sections have burned down now and then (I mean, this is Beijing after all, there are open flames pretty much everywhere) most of the city is original.
I went to Tian’anmen Square and the Forbidden City for the first time about a month after I had moved to Beijing with my roommate in august of 2012, my second time was in July 2013 with my parents, and earlier this month I traveled there with my little brother (I went to Tian’anmen itself once with some friends in March or April of 2013 but not 紫禁城) . I love these two pieces of history so much I am sure I will go back many more times.


“We’re All Mad Here” – The Hatter

We must be, why else would we have come to Beijing, and I am not just talking about the foreigners. The other Chinese people have got to be just as crazy as we are to want to come here; but if I am being fair, I didn’t know what I was getting into before I came here either. In fact, I know less about Beijing two years on, certainly less about life, because in this city, of all places, it is not just your sanity that is tested, but who you are as a person. Living in Beijing is a trial, the standing court is kangaroo, and all you have ever held dear will be examined, negated and broken to pieces. If you can manage to avoid the humpty dumpty and piece yourself together again, well then Beijing is actually quite a pleasant place to live.
Here begins a chronology of my time in Beijing and my life in China thus far.
The pictures include me sleeping in a subway car and my foot after being run over by a car [(notice the tire marks).

And So It Begins

After spending that last two years of my life deep in the heart of darkness, and living for most of that time without a vpn, I thought it was long overdue that I started to share my experiences with the world (since this is now one of the only reliable mediums with which I can communicate with friends and family abroad).
I live in an amazing city, in a country growing so rapidly it cannot even define itself, where my life is filled with experiences that most never have, lest they would be driven insane. And good thing I don’t drive in Beijing, otherwise I would have gone insane quite a long time ago.
So now begin the tales of my adventures here in the Northern Capital and abroad, yet this blog is ultimately for myself; I wish to set up a catalog of experiences which I can look back on to remind myself just how amazing Beijing, and the world, can be. This blog will (attempt) to detail my life in the city chronologically, recounting the past and moving on into the present. It will focus on my time in the East; the places I have been, the fun I have had, the friends I have gained, the love, the loss, the blurry memories which only make an appearance in my consciousness from time to time. It will include essays and poetry about the city, reviews of anywhere I happen to wind up and generally whatever else I feel like writing about on a given day.